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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.